Sarasota, Florida is known for its many great restaurants — it has the most highly rated Zagat Guide restaurants in Florida. So it was no surprise the the House of Krug would choose this small city on the Gulf of Mexico for one of its recent “Krug Journey” Champagne Dinners. Held at Sarasota’s award winning Michael’s On East, the dinner accommodated only twelve guests, the number determined by the quantity of Champagne. An intimate glimpse into one of the storied houses of Champagne, it was even more exceptional by the attendance of winemaker Alice Tetienne.
The House of Krug does things somewhat differently. Krug intentionally showcases the best selections of wines from various vineyards in its Grand Cuvee, which is a non-vintage brut. The one we drank was the166th edition. The wines are always separated by the plots of vineyards from which they came and the vintage years. The 166th edition, for example, came from 250 different wines.
The Grand Cuvee 166 is full of finesse. It’s dry but still fruity, showing a good deal of authority. The perlage — the bubbles flowing upwards in the flute — were energetic and joyful. An inspired appetizer of truffled duck egg sprinkled with caviar and tiny capers was the perfect pairing.
This first course was served reception-style and we had an opportunity to chat with Alice, who clued us into some of the operating principles at Krug. “As winemakers, we always are respecting the tradition of the House (its over 200 years old). Krug has always produced only prestige Champagnes. We believe that there is great diversity in Champagne in the vineyards, in individual plots of vineyards. Some produce wine that is timid, some are rock stars. So we respect that and work with it in the blending,” she said. “We like to compare it to an orchestra. Each instrument brings something to the overall sound.”
Sweet Sixteen
The next course showcased the Krug Clos Du Mesnil 2002. The grapes come from a relatively small single vineyard of chardonnay. Served in a wine tasting glass instead of a flute, this 16 year old champagne deserved attention to all its aspects — the nose, the flavors, the body and the finish. In many ways it was the pure expression of chardonnay — a bit citrusy, a little pepper in the nose, tastes of brioche and a long lingering finish. Served with halibut in a sabayon sauce with flavors and pieces of grapefruit and Dungeness crab, it was amazing that this16 year old had the vibrancy to partner with such a bold dish.
Not the Least Bit Frivolous
A pistachio-crusted veal loin was served with the 21st Edition of Drug Rose. Alice explained that unlike other roses, this wine, a blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meuniers, has around 10 percent of the pinot noir from macerated wine, meaning the wine sits with the grape skins and stems for an extended period of time. “It adds incredible depth to the rose,” she added. And that technique certainly showed in this wine. It’s bold, spicy, and unlike other rose Champagnes, not in the least bit frivolous.
The final course brought an creative scoop of rose petal and mint ice cream along with an apple tart tatin baked in a round shape to mimic the ice cream. More Grand Cuvee — this the 163rd Edition en mangnum — put a satisfying finale to a grand evening.
A Champagne Dinner of Your Own
The Krug dinner inspired me to jot some notes on creating an all Champagne dinner at home. Rule #1: Begin with a brut Champagne as an aperitif. Classic partners with brut Champagne include oysters, warmed cashews, or a riff on the Michael’s On East dish of a hard boiled egg be it chicken, duck or quail with a sprinkling of caviar.
With the main courses, opt for a fuller bodied Champagne made primarily from pinot noir — be it a blanc de noir or rose. The Krug Rose is perfect. Other alternatives to consider are two of my other favorite roses — Veuve Cliquot or Ruinart. While a hint of spice is fine, choose a recipe that has a more subtle flavor profile for your main dish.
Finally, your dessert should be carefully selected. Chocolate and strong cheeses are too bold to partner with a Champagne. Stick with fruit. I especially like the Piper Heidsieck Extra-Dry. Remember, “extra-dry” actually means the Champagne has a bit more residual sugar than brut Champagnes, making these wines the perfect partners for desserts.
Bon Appetit and A Votre Santé!