There comes a time when we all have to face up to the fact that the spirit may be willing but the flesh is, well, trussed up with knee braces, appliquéd with pain relief patches and just not what it used to be.
If you’re in that state of mind, yet are resolute in your love of the Rockies in the winter, don’t despair. You can still enjoy the mountains covered with pristine snow glistening below bluebird skies, and crisp energizing temperatures. Get ready to enjoy an out-of-doors Colorado vacation – no sitting around the après ski fireplace ’til sunset – with this set of winter activities.
First stop, Fraser Valley’s award-winning Devil's Thumb Ranch, recently named by the Wall Street Journal as “flat-out ideal for cross-country skiing.” The ranch takes its name from a rocky outcrop that towers high above the property. It's an Indian legend about war and reconciliation and worth swapping over a glass of wine in the elegant lodge. That lodge, with its 52 rooms of beautifully rustic furnishings, is home base for a wealth of activity on the 6,000 acres, all which sit in a valley tucked under the Continental Divide just minutes outside of the town of Winter Park and Rocky Mountain National Park.
For experienced skinny skiers, the Ranch offers miles of ungroomed ski trails. For the rest of us, there are classes that touch on every level of experience and skill needed to tackle the 75 miles of groomed trails. There are even skijoring trails — that’s a trail for skiing with your furry friend.
I decided a session of cross country skiing was definitely in order. Much to my chagrin, I found the skinny skis a lot more difficult to maneuver than I anticipated. I visualized the movement of a panther in bedroom slippers and attempted to perform this. In retrospect, this was most likely the root cause of my obvious lack of skill in this sport. Cross county session mercifully over, I repaired to the room and its fabulous soaking tub. It was so restorative, I was able to hobble over to the spa for a late afternoon yoga session.
And what a session it was. The yoga studio, with its twenty foot ceiling, features a wall of windows on the Continental Divide, which was glowing in the throes of a magnificent sunset. The instructor was excellent, moving us easily through poses that seemed an extension of the natural beauty surrounding us. It was an extraordinary experience that kept me returning to yoga our entire stay.
There are plenty of other activities if you want to ease into the high altitude aerobic activities.
It’s the horses that piqued my second day’s interest. We signed up to assist on the early morning feed run. That consists of riding on a flat-bedded hay wagon with runners, a sort of hybrid sleigh, pulled by a pair of work horses, out into the pastures to feed the 100+ horses. It's tough to contain the joy this simple exercise of feeding the horses on a brilliant morning brings. Soon we're into the barn for some hot chocolate – best ever – and a bit of a warm up.
I also gave snow shoeing a go, and I finally found my outdoor aerobic activity. A hiker in the summer, the snow shoes offered the same access to walking in the wilderness. And it was so much fun, I felt a child’s delight in discovering a new skill. Another session of joyfulness!
My Inner Cowgirl
Speaking of childhood, as a young girl, I always wanted to visit a dude ranch, a desire my parents found frivolous since we lived on a farm. However our Midwestern farm seemed light years away from the herds of horses, beef cattle and cowboys in my adolescent mind. My dude ranch wish came true when we booked the week-end at the C Lazy U, the legendary guest ranch just outside of Granby, that's been around since 1919. And if you thought dude ranches were strictly for summer, think again.
Arriving mid-Friday afternoon, we soon found ourselves in the indoor riding arena paired up with a horse, selected for us by the storied head wrangler Bill Fisher, who has been at this for 60+ years. Bill, along with some of his staff, put us through some basics – backing up, turning, and stopping – all by touch of the reins and gentle pressure of the knees. Our pleasurable work in the arena was in preparation for a trail ride scheduled for the next day.
Saturday dawned gray and cloudy. Undaunted, we filled up on excellent ranch fare and headed over to the barn to saddle up. In addition to our own cold weather gear, wrangler Fisher insisted on putting us in a cowboy duster to protect us from the impending snow. I was in heaven; an actual cowboy duster. I was so excited, I maneuvered my horse Penny into first place behind the lead wrangler.
Sure enough, 100 yards into the trail, a soft snow began to fall. My adolescent excitement dissipated into a state of utter awe. Meandering our way up and down the wooded mountainsides, snow drifting down through the pale light; it was another world of extraordinary silence and beauty.
A half day in the saddle sends you straight to the massage table. And while I’ve experienced some pretty amazing spa experiences, the Lazy U Spa takes first place for "unique." Housed in all-weather tents literally on top of the head waters of the Colorado River, the treatment rooms feature wood-burning stoves. The therapist not only has to know muscles, but fire tending, too. The treatment room also has a section of plexi-glass floor so you can lie on the table and watch trout swim by.
Its an inspiration for even more riding on the ranches thousands of acres on one of their 200 + horses while enjoying some pretty luxurious indoor amenities, too.
If you go:
Devil's Thumb Lodge
Devil’s Thumb Ranch
3530 County Road 83
Tabernash, CO 80478
800-933-4339
C Lazy U Ranch
Granby, CO
970-887-3344